Custom Steel Jewelry: Lost Wax Casting

Stainless steel, due to its corrosion resistance and remarkable durability, has become a cornerstone material in the jewelry industry as a high-quality alternative to .925 silver. However, unlike silver, which is more malleable, the elements of stainless steel make the process of casting extremely intricate.

Around since 3,000 BC, lost wax casting is a manufacturing technique in which molten metal is poured into a hollow mold cavity. The process is as follows:

Molding

The first step involves creating the desired design out of wax. The initial wax structure is hand carved with special tools in order to keep all the small details. Afterwards, a rubber mold is made that encapsulates around the wax mold design. This allows for mass production of the wax molds through an injection process. Each casting requires 1 wax mold. Since casting is a shrinking process, it is important when molding to adjust for shrinkage.

After all wax molds are complete, the wax molds are used to create copper molds. These copper molds are then assembled into a statue like structure known as the “casting tree.” Upon completion, each casting tree is dipped in a ceramic coating and hung in a refrigerator to form a hard outer shell.

After the shell has dried, we flash fire the molds to melt the copper and form a hollow cavity.

Once all the copper been removed, the steel alloys are melted in a furnace at over 2,550°F and poured into the mold. Following, the trees are hung in a dry air, low humidity room to harden.

Release

After the steel has hardened, the trees are soaked in water to soften the shells. Once the shells have dissolved and been removed, each casting is cut off the tree. This part is extremely tedious as if not done correctly, can result in broken castings.

Polishing

Due to its malleability, each individual stainless-steel piece undergoes a minimum of 2 rounds of polishing. The first round is for removing any excess mold material. The second is to create a shiny finish. For more simple designs, polishing is done using a large wheel. For intricate pieces, we hand polish with a tool.

Plating & Electrolysis

After polishing, each piece is washed in a process known as electrolysis. If plating is needed (gold, rose gold, antique silver), it will flow after it is washed.

With advancements in technology, lost wax casting has become a viable and affordable alternative for a non-tarnishing metal. Due to its extensive process, a typical casting project can take between 6 to 8 weeks. However, if you ask any of our past clients, the outcome is worth it. Check out our Instagram for more of our custom steel jewelry work and contact us today to get started on your project!